Kirsten shirt
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Design: Helga Isager
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Kirsten Shirt pattern
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MATERIALS AND MEASUREMENTS
SIZES
XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL)
MATERIALS
Colour A: 150 (150) 200 (200) 250 (250) g Isager Tvinni in colour 58 (ivory)
Colour B: 50 (50) 50 (50) 50 (50) g Isager Silk Mohair in colour 64 (orange)
4 small shirt buttons– approx. 12 mm diameter
Try-it-on tubing stitch holder
MEASUREMENTS
Half bust circumference: 46 (50) 52 (56) 60 (62) cm
[18 (19 3/4) 20 1/2 (22) 23 1/2 (24 1/2) inches]
Yoke – half circumference front: 33,5 (36,5) 36,5 (39,5) 39,5 (39,5) cm [13 1/4 (14 1/2) 14 1/2 (15 1/2) 15 1/2 (15 1/2) inches]
Yoke – half circumference back: 33 (36) 36 (39) 39 (39) cm
[13 (14 1/4) 14 1/4 (15 1/4) 15 1/4 (15 1/4) inches]
Total length: 59 (60.5) 60.5 (62) 62 (62) cm [23 1/4 (23 3/4) 23 3/4 (24 1/2) 24 1/2 (24 1/2) inches]
Length to armhole: 35 (35) 35 (35) 35 (35) cm
[13 3/4 (13 3/4) 13 3/4 (13 3/4) 13 3/4 (13 3/4) inches]
Armhole depth: 22 (23.5) 23.5 (25) 25 (25) cm
[8 3/4 (9 1/4) 9 1/4 (9 3/4) 9 3/4 (9 3/4) inches]
CONSTRUCTION
The front and back body are worked sideways in a pattern of stockinette stitch with garter ridges (worked as 2 knitted rows in Silk Mohair). Short rows are worked so the space between the garter ridges is narrower closer to the yoke. When the body has been completed, stitches are picked up and knitted along the top of it, and the yoke with the front placket is worked from these stitches. Short rows are worked at the shoulders and the shoulders are knitted together.
The design has a rib collar and little cap sleeves, which are worked separately and sewn on.
ABOUT THE DESIGN
Helga Isager writes about the design:
The starting point for my contribution to the Isager Archives Collection was Åse Lund Jensen’s pattern ‘Skjorte’ with stripes lengthwise and crosswise and knitted in one strand of Isager Jensen Yarn.
My own version, Kirsten Shirt, is knitted in one strand of Isager Tvinni with garter stitch ridges worked in one strand of Isager Silk Mohair. I wanted to make a Springlike lightweight garment and Tvinni is perfect for this. At the same time, I love knitting on fine needles and that knitting takes time and involve techniques that make a beautiful finish. The garments I spent a long time making often stay in my wardrobe the longest.
The front and back body are worked sideways. Short rows are worked so the space between the garter ridges is narrower closer to the yoke. When the body has been completed, stitches are picked up and knitted along the top of it, and the yoke with the front placket is worked from these stitches. Short rows are worked at the shoulders and the shoulders are knitted together.
The design has a rib collar and little cap sleeves, which are worked separately and sewn on.
NEEDLES
3 mm [US2 1/2] and 2.5 mm [US1 1/2]
GAUGE
Body
In pattern (stockinette stitch with garter ridges) on a 3 mm [US2 1/2] needle:
10 cm [4 inches] = 24 sts
10 cm [4 inches] = 40 rows
Yoke and sleeves
In pattern (stockinette stitch with garter ridges) on a 2.5 mm [US1 1/2] needle:
10 cm [4 inches] = 26 sts
10 cm [4 inches] = 42 rows
In ribbing (k1, p1) on a 2.5 mm [US1 1/2] needle – un-stretched:
10 cm = 42 sts
10 cm = 42 rows
ISAGER ARCHIVES COLLECTION
In the summer of 2023, Helga Isager invited a group of Denmark’s best knit designers for an inspiring weekend at Isager in Tversted. Here, they bagan their work on the Isager Archives collection, where all models are inspired by Åse Lund Jensen’s patterns from the 1960s and 1970s.
On the contrary to the political knitwear of the time which cultivate spontaneity and knitting without a pattern, Åse’s designs were always very well thought out and clearly showed her background as a tailor. We treasure her neat patterns and drawings and keep them all in binders which we normally only have access to ourselves.
In the Isager Archives collection, each designer has taken inspiration from one or more patterns from the archives to create a new and contemporary design.
The Isager Archives collection consists of 12 modern and timeless pieces of knitwear.
You can view the entire collection HERE.
